This year’s SS26 shows focused on themes that seem to oppose each other, but still blend together seamlessly and locally rooted in the landscape of New York City. In a time where voices from the most extreme sides of opposition politically have the most weight, we are considering our past and present as they relate to how we want to shape our future as a city, a country, and a world, it is only natural for the themes of spring to reflect the zeitgeist. The themes are continuations from prior seasons which we can continue to explore as we move through these challenging times.
Deconstruction vs Construction
Deconstruction can be the opportunity to bring to light the architecture of a structure, the exploration of what lies beneath that creates the foundation for a garment and beyond. This season we’re looking at the contrast between immaculately constructed garments with just a hint of deconstructive chaos. Khaite, LII, and Toteme all had shows that highlighted their beautifully constructed garments by using subtle deconstruction that drew the eye. Khaite and LII play with fascinating shapes and cutouts, while Toteme aims to show subtle deconstruction with a simple slouch built into a shirt or dress. The elevated concept provides food for thought, that we should always be considering the fundamental values that lie beneath.
Left: Khaite Corinne Top and Quan Top Middle: LII Open-Sleeve Dress and Panelled Skirt Right: Toteme Slouch Shirtdress and Guipure Lace Skirt
Looking Ahead vs Looking Back
Many brands played with the idea of optimism by drawing from the past and the future. Brandon Maxwell plays with vintage and new age prints and textures and Area harkens back to party culture of the 1980s and other fashion moments of the past (think cargo pants of the early 2000s). Elena Velez goes a slightly different route by drawing inspiration from the unease of 19th century America to remind us that while we may be uneasy in America now, things will eventually change.
Left: Brandon Maxwell The Greer Zip Front Plaid Jacquard Knit Cardigan and The Billie Button Up Top Middle: Elena Velez Landwalker Dress and Frilled Mini Dress Right: Area Sequin Basketball Jersey and Pom Pom Bag
New York City vs The World
Being set in New York, we always see a sense of “New York Cool” on the runway during NYFW, and this year that sense of cool was meshed with other landscapes. Anna Sui reminds us of the landscape of the American West, or via that girl from Brooklyn who has dressed in that bohemian style for years! Coach blends the iconic New York City look with cities from across America, and Proenza Schouler had a soft debut with their new creative director, Rachel Scott, that combined the essence of New York with her home country of Jamaica. Weaving together the essence of these different places reminds us that in essence we are all the same.
